Add Texture to Smooth CF on a Caly?

[Bolster]

I have a Caly 3 CF/ZDP that I'd carry more if I felt I could get a decent grip on its very slippery CF surface.

Solutions? PHOTOS of solutions?

[The Deacon]

Am sure that, like G-10 and Micarta, simply scuffing up the surface with coarse sandpaper would add traction, albeit at the expense of looks. That would probably be the easiest to accomplish, especially given that the Caly 3's scales can't be simply unscrewed and removed for modding. Looks are the other question, peel-ply CF isn't all that popular because a lot of folks buy CF for the pattern. Roughening the surface would probably hide even more of the pattern than peel ply. You might consider selling it and getting the grey G-10 Super Blue version, possibly doing a blade swap if you don't want the maintenance hassle of a carbon steel blade, or, assuming the longer blade would be legal in your area, trading it in on a G-10 Caly 3.5.

[Bolster]

Thanks.

I have a mill, and I've been pondering a diamond checkered pattern (like a gunstock). Question being, will the CF hold a pattern? Or would it disintegrate?

Has anyone sandblasted the smooth CF and if so, what was the result?

[The Deacon]

Pretty sure some folks have given a corrugated texture like that of the G-10 on the Anso Zulu and Perrin PPT to CF. Spyderco also offers somewhat checkered CF on the Domino and others. Problem is that, unlike G-10 where both the resin and the "filler" are specified, and only the proportion of glass cloth to resin can vary between manufacturers, the folks making CF composites can use any resin they choose, so it's probably not 100% certain that something that worked on CF from one manufacturer would work on CF from another.

[JNewell]

As Paul says, CF varies a lot, but here's a few thoughts.

First, I'd be careful with the mill. Carbon fiber (and to a slightly lesser extent, G10 and micarta) will produce very small fibers that can be extremely bad for your lungs. Hand work can be done under running water. When I use power tools, I wear a high grade respirator, full cover goggles, and work outside. If you have a really good dust control system, indoor work might be ok but be aware of the hazardous nature of the collected waste.

Second, my experience with two different types of CF has been that once you cut into the surface, you get a lot of loose fibers. You can probably research ways to refinish the surface, but you will need to refinish somehow.

One approach that occurred to me is possibly glass bead blasting the surface. I have seen this done to G10 and micarta. The increase in grip was surprising.

[Bolster]

Thank you Paul and JNewell. Your answers went right to the heart of my concerns:

1) I was aware that G10 was nasty stuff to route/sand/machine. Was not aware that CF was similar. I do have the heavy duty half-mask respirators but don't want to be dealing with loose fuzzy glass fibers on the scales, or the need to refinish somehow, so that option's now out of the running. I can imagine CF being something like fiberglass to machine (ie, nasty).

2) Glass bead blasting was on my short list, too. I'd prefer to find a scrap of woven CF and try it first, though. Wouldn't even glass bead expose lots of hairy little fibers? I have no idea.

[Bolster]

Found these interesting comments while searching the web in a bicycle builder's forum:

"CF is a material made from thousands of interwoven threads of plastic-like material, coated in a layer of clear lacquer. As soon as the layer of lacquer is broken, the weave starts to break and the structural integrity of the product plummets. That's why if you get even a tiny chip on CF you should cover it with tape to protect is 'til you can replace it."

"The Carbon fibre is contained within a resin matrix. Much will depend upon the type of layup on the frame. But, Usually, most laminates have a sacrificial surface coating over the actual laminate. Perhaps there is a clear coat over this."

"DO NOT sandblast a CF fork. The instructions that came with my Kestrel EMS fork was VERY explicit in its warning: ....do not sandblast, bead blast or blast with any other medium."

"Check out nutechsodablasting.com. They have pics of sodablasting a carbon fiber shell off a race car."

"To my understanding you can basically soda blast any carbon part of the bike...With a nice matt finish in all of them." (This article was accompanied by photos, see: http://punainenparooni.files.wordpress. ... g_0918.jpg" target="_blank )

Based on a better understanding of what carbon fiber is, I'm losing my interest in modifying/disturbing the CF surface. Now I'm thinking applying something on top of the surface is better. Tread tape seems an extreme (and ugly) solution. Other ideas?

[Donut]

My suggestion is just spend $100 on a G-10 Caly 3.5.

You can probably sell the Carbon Fiber one to fund it.