I don't think it is advantageous for hardware to be less corrosion resistant. Simply put, I don't know the answer here. I couldn't tell you if the hardware on PM2's are more or less resistant. But I've never had a problem because I maintain my blades the way I mentioned above.hunterseeker5 wrote:Liquid Cobra wrote:I dry my knives out with a blow dryer. The combination of air being blown into it along with the heat dries out nicely, I've never had a problem.Just take the time and your knife will be fine.
Second, H-1 is incapable of rusting.
We're getting a bit off-topic but, my point (since you clearly missed it) is that I did what would be considered due dilligence in taking care of this knife. Spyderco's manual doesn't say that you have to dry it out with a blow-dryer, air compressor, or anything of the sort, it just says dry and oil it.
Furthermore, you fail to address the real point I'm making which is: why would you think it advantageous to make a knife where the stop pin corrodes more easily than, say, the pivot pin, liners, and blade? I don't see why that would make the knife better, or why that is consistent with the knife's use? Could you possibly address that question rather than ignoring it again?
As far as H1 being incapable of rusting, I believe you need to brush up on your chemistry.
As far as H-1 goes, this is from Spyderco's site:
H-1 folders and fixed blades are a collection of water-friendly knives Spyderco calls their Salt Series. As part of this series the Ladybug 3 Salt Hawkbill uses H-1 which is a nitrogen-based blade alloy rather than carbon-based. The elimination of carbon in the steel renders it one-hundred percent rust proof but like its carbon-steel cousins, H-1 takes a hard sharpened cutting edge and earns high marks for edge retention."
Here is the link: http://www.spyderco.ca/catalog/details.php?product=624" target="_blank