spyderwolf...?

[BTG]

Haven't seen much discussion on this one, kind of intrigued...first off, I love green G10, but the scales seem so large for the blade length, looks like it would be pretty bulky in pocket..... Kinda strange as far as blade length and closed length, don't = overall length....kinda has a horn on top edge when closed, that cuts into blade length (at least on the spine) I'm guessing. I was just wondering if this design has a specific intended use.

[farnorthdan]

Its suppose to be for bush-crafting (whatever that means), I'd rather use a fixed blade out in the woods myself. I actually like the look of the spyderwolf though and will probably try to get one. Supposedly only available from the Ray Mears site, never the less I think it would be a nice addition to the collection and probably be highly sought after down the road a piece. I wonder how much it will be including shipping from across the pond.

[Holland]

A low thick sabergrind is generally not my cup of tea, but it is definitely an interesting design

[Ruarch]

This is one I am interested in as well. I want to see how it works vs some other scandi grinds I have for wood processing. At worst I will through it in my day pack as a backup knife.

Edit: I heard (don't know for sure) that it will sold only through company in the UK. If this is true it might price it out of my willingness to buy it. But on the flip side I hope it does well for my EU brothers.

[timlara]

I too am interested to in the Spyderwolf since it kind of reminds me a little bit of the discontinued Lil Temp in some ways. Probably out of my price range as well if it truly ends up being a UK exclusive, but I'd really like to get a chance to handle one.

[Evil D]

A low thick sabergrind is generally not my cup of tea, but it is definitely an interesting design

I thought this was a scandi?

[SpyderNut]

It is an interesting design. I'd like to see and hold one before making the final decision. That oversized handle is a modder's dream-come-true.

[Ruarch]

A low thick sabergrind is generally not my cup of tea, but it is definitely an interesting design

I thought this was a scandi?

The product guide calls it a scandi and if Ray Mears had any say, I am willing to bet it is a true scandi. I hope it really is a scandi though, otherwise my interest fades.

[SouthernCross]

...The product guide calls it a scandi and if Ray Mears had any say, I am willing to bet it is a true scandi. I hope it really is a scandi though, otherwise my interest fades.

Rather than add IMO to every statement I make underneath, from the start can I say that the following is only one persons opinion, based on first hand experience in using knives for bushcraft with Australian hardwoods decades before the term became fashionable on the internet. BTW for the cynics out there, don't just take my word for it, but look at the videos I have already posted on youtube showing carving projects with seasoned hardwoods. :)

Additionaly, since I'm not into cutting down living vegetation because green wood is easier to cut with a knife than seasoned dead fall, my opinions are based on using a knife to process seasoned Australian hardwoods.

OK now that this caveat is out of the way...

Apart from the simple fact that a "Scaninavian grind" could be described as "one used on a Scandinavian knife", there are different opinions across the 'net about what actually constitutes a "Scandi". From my own personal first hand experience, a zero grind "Scandi" (without a thicker bevel just before the edge), produces an edge that can easily roll when used to cut harder materials.

BTW, what was being reported with the edge of the Nilaka without the addition of a thicker bevel just before the edge?

Now how many Spyderco fans state that they apply a 30 degree secondary bevel (aka back bevel) & then a apply a thicker (40 degrees) tertiary bevel and report a strong and durable edge?

Also bear in mind the types of wood found naturally in Scandinavia. Are they mostly harder woods or mostly softer woods like pine, spruce etc?

Even Ray Mears stated that he wanted a "Scandi" on his original bushcraft knife because the grind itself would make it easier to sharpen for those who bought the knife.

However in the field, even a scandi that is sharpened with a hand held stone will end up with a convex edge. Even Ray Mear's own video that showed him using nails to hold a Fallkniven DC4 stone on a log to sharpen his knife ( https://youtu.be/D4y8u_iJf1M" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ) showed that the stone still moved relative to the knife & would produce a convex edge (interestingly, Ray didn't respond to my comment on this video that pointed this out).

To sum up, unless the edge is set & maintained by a machine, humans hands cannot repeatedly move an object (knife) relative to another (the sharpening medium) even with the aid of a guided sharpening system like the Sharpmaker, without some form of variation.

So IMO, the interesting question becomes...are people who are sharpening their knives "by hand" actually achieving a true V bevel, a true Scandi grind or they actually benefitting from a convex at the edge. :eek:

Mick :)

[bearded_scout]

I really wanted this knife when I saw it but I have heard little about it. Now that I've seen the Pattada well there is more money I will never see.

[SpeedHoles]

If it is a zero grind scandi, I hate to imagine the chipping of the S30V... like the early Nilakka.

4V or 52100, would have been fun to see in a factory zero grind for a knife of this purpose.

[SouthernCross]

If it is a zero grind scandi, I hate to imagine the chipping of the S30V... like the early Nilakka.

4V or 52100, would have been fun to see in a factory zero grind for a knife of this purpose.

If you want toughness in a thin edge profile, why not 3V?

Whilst charts may show 4V holds an edge longer that 3V, my experience with both steels in thinner edges has shown that with softer materials like softwoods & animal skins / flesh, 4V will hold it's edge for longer, when it comes to cutting harder material like seasoned hardwoods the additional toughness of 3V may explain why in my first hand experience it appears to cut for longer than 4V.

Additionally, even though 3V is technically not a stainless steel, it has shown greater corrosion resistance than 52100 (when both have been used in a saltwater environment).

IMO, a great example of when it comes to knife steels, it really comes down to "horses for courses".

Mick

[SpeedHoles]

If it is a zero grind scandi, I hate to imagine the chipping of the S30V... like the early Nilakka.

4V or 52100, would have been fun to see in a factory zero grind for a knife of this purpose.

If you want toughness in a thin edge profile, why not 3V?

Whilst charts may show 4V holds an edge longer that 3V, my experience with both steels in thinner edges has shown that with softer materials like softwoods & animal skins / flesh, 4V will hold it's edge for longer, when it comes to cutting harder material like seasoned hardwoods the additional toughness of 3V may explain why in my first hand experience it appears to cut for longer than 4V.

Additionally, even though 3V is technically not a stainless steel, it has shown greater corrosion resistance than 52100 (when both have been used in a saltwater environment).

IMO, a great example of when it comes to knife steels, it really comes down to "horses for courses".

Mick

Yeah I agree, the 3V should be tougher than the 4V, but just how much, I do not know.
Either way it's just a small trade off depending on what you want.
And yeah 52100 does corrode fairly easily, but not a concern for me.