Anodizing a Ti Military

[farnorthdan]

So I think I'm going to get my fluted Military anodized.

I'm talking with Esteban at Tisurvival about doing the job, has anyone had him do one of their pieces? Pictures would be great, also any suggestions on color and finish, I'm trying to replicate the original factory effect.

Thanks team :)

[spydieh0le]

I want to do my regular Ti Millie a seafoam green. :).

[endgame]

I have never had esteban do anodizing but I baught many products from him and he is top notch at what he does I dont think you will be disappointed

[Donut]

House of Blades has done some REALLY incredible anodizations that I've seen pictures of. I might opt for them first unless the price is too much.

[farnorthdan]

House of Blades has done some REALLY incredible anodizations that I've seen pictures of. I might opt for them first unless the price is too much.

Thanks Brian, I'll look into that option, Esteban is quoting around $50 for the service. Its cheaper if I disassemble the knife myself and just send in the scales. I know this is going to sound like a real noob question but is the millie easy to take apart and reassemble, any tricks or things to watch out for? I really don't want to booger up this one.

[Donut]

I've never actually done it. I would say really easy to take apart. :p The complaints I hear the most are that the blade isn't centered when you put it back together, but there's a trick to fixing that.

I would bet you that there are videos on youtube of disassembling and reassembling a military with some tips in them. Maybe watching one of those videos will give you an idea of how difficult it is.


In my opinion, and with a knife that valuable, it might be worth paying someone $20-ish to do it, if they know what they are doing.

[RadioactiveSpyder]

It's very easy to disassemble and reassemble the Military, and the Ti version is the easiest of them all. Just don't lose any parts and careful not to shear any screws during reassembly. If the screw is not going in straight and clean, it will break if you try to force it. There's not really any other tricks I know of, it is a far easier model to play with than those darn Japanese FRN Spydies (now those I have a few tricks for!).

Oh, and try not to get "boogers" on it, you won't bugger it up that way! Any questions, just shoot me a PM. Just saw the last post from Brian, I'm happy to take it apart and reassemble it for you. If I mess it up, you can have mine!

[Donut]

It's very easy to disassemble and reassemble the Military, and the Ti version is the easiest of them all. Just don't lose any parts and careful not to shear any screws during reassembly. If the screw is not going in straight and clean, it will break if you try to force it. There's not really any other tricks I know of, it is a far easier model to play with than those darn Japanese FRN Spydies (now those I have a few tricks for!).

Oh, and try not to get "boogers" on it, you won't bugger it up that way! Any questions, just shoot me a PM. Just saw the last post from Brian, I'm happy to take it apart and reassemble it for you. If I mess it up, you can have mine!

The only thing is that he says it is a Fluted one, that's one you don't want to mess up. :p

[RadioactiveSpyder]

The only thing is that he says it is a Fluted one, that's one you don't want to mess up. :p

Fluted, regular, all easy as pie! . My Cruwear blade took a short ride in my fluted version for a while. Now it patiently waits for a S110V blade!

[farnorthdan]

Thanks guys for the help and suggestions, so how hard to do you think it will be to replicate the look of the factory version? From the pictures I've seen online the knifes vary some and no two are alike, do you think I should ask for an all blue effect or a more subtle fading, maybe even go for a different color than blue?

[dubya3]

I know of a guy that makes titanium scales for spydies, Steve Rippsomething. He does some really nice anodizing to them. I'm waiting for his workload to lessen and eventually get a pair of titanium scales drilled for tip up for my spyderedge millie.

[Donut]

Steve Rice (STR)?

[RadioactiveSpyder]

Steve Rice (STR)?

You can try. I chatted with STR several times over the last few weeks and he kindly made me two deep-carry Millie clips, most likely his last two . He says he's effectively retired from knife-modding and clip making since no one contacts him any more with new business. Apparently it had been several months since someone had requested a clip of his. He's my go-to guy for my deep carry Southard and Military clips.

I guess the other clip makers on eBay and BF have his business now, and no Casey Lynch is not the person responsible for that. Casey doesn't make clips for those 2 knives (although he kindly powder coated a STR Southard clip black for me recently, the only one I've ever seen! ).

[RadioactiveSpyder]

Thanks guys for the help and suggestions, so how hard to do you think it will be to replicate the look of the factory version? From the pictures I've seen online the knifes vary some and no two are alike, do you think I should ask for an all blue effect or a more subtle fading, maybe even go for a different color than blue?

Personally Dan, I would go for a different hue, green maybe? I'd go for something custom and not try to match the stock versions, although a more rainbow style ano job like the first run of heat-treated fluted Millies would also look very cool. I'm excited to see where your project ends up, keep us posted!

[endgame]

I think estabom will surprise you.I love his hotspots anodizing on a polished surface.get polished green with hotspots I bet that would look sweet .