JAfromMN wrote:With a serrated blade I know I can cut through just about anything with plane edge I can make more detail cuts and fast push cuts through softer materials.
Nothing new to add just saying hi to a friend. Sup Joel?
About 20 years ago I was buying combo edges, thinking it was the best of both worlds. In the years since I don't recall ever cutting anything with the serrated part. In the last 10+ years I've been buying plain edge knives almost exclusively. I did buy a full SE Ladybug not long ago. I was showing it to my daughter in a fast food restaurant and we did a quick test. I rolled up a paper napkin and stretched it between my hands while she cut it with the Ladybug. Then we did the same test with her PE Tenacious, which cut the napkin significantly faster. This is not a good test because the Ladybug serrations aren't equal too other Spyderco serrations. Not long ago I bought a used SE Endura, well used. The serrations were very dull and some were deformed. I spent a lot of time with a round diamond rod trying to sharpen the serrations. I did get them sharp but not as sharp as I wanted and I gave up. My daughter borrowed that knife and I may not get it back. I bought it with the intent of doing some SE vs. PE testing but I haven't figured out what material to use to really test it.
Since we're on the topic, I could use a touch up on my zdp spyderedge delica. What's the best method (specifically which tool/brand) is easiest to sharpen serrations? I don't own anything yet but use my brothers sharpmaker when needed.
Cory
Upgrading to a Ti ATR once I sell my stainless ATR :)
Kirko wrote:The more I think about it I am liking serrated in a spider on knife , if the Delica did not come in a full flat grind I would have gotten it in serrated .. Flat grinds are so easy to sharpen and tweak with a strop. I have a jump master coming and I KNOW IT it will be a terror when it come to cutting.
Hi Kirko, I just sharpened my jumpmaster for the first time two days ago. Had some very slight deformation on the tips of a couple of the teeth and it had just generally lost some of its bite. I put the brown rods in the sharpmaker at 40 degrees and worked the edge for about 12-15 passes which took care of the damaged tips of the teeth. After that i moved to the fine rods for another dozen or so passes. The knife is back to treetopping arm hair and will instantly bite when i touch it to the hair of my beard. The entire sharpening probably 90 seconds. :)
Fwiw, when sharpening I keep the knife vertical on the serrated side and sharpen it almost flat against the stone on the backside...probaby about 5 degrees. I find this is enough to take off any burr without fattening the edge bevel too much.
I go so far as to lay some knives completely flat on a bench stone on the back side (usually only FFG blades). It makes for a slightly unsightly blade but also keeps the edge as thin as possible. All my SE blades are borderline beaters anyway so they'll get a fair amount of scratches one way or another.
dubya3 wrote:Since we're on the topic, I could use a touch up on my zdp spyderedge delica. What's the best method (specifically which tool/brand) is easiest to sharpen serrations? I don't own anything yet but use my brothers sharpmaker when needed.
This is the method I came up with and have had amazing results. That said, I do plan on ordering a Sharpmaker specifically for my SE blades and will then use it along with my Dremel.
dubya3 wrote:Since we're on the topic, I could use a touch up on my zdp spyderedge delica. What's the best method (specifically which tool/brand) is easiest to sharpen serrations? I don't own anything yet but use my brothers sharpmaker when needed.
This is the method I came up with and have had amazing results. That said, I do plan on ordering a Sharpmaker specifically for my SE blades and will then use it along with my Dremel.
@ Evil D, a question for you: do you move the tapered rod in a motion down on serrations or against the serrations ? Your method seems to be less invasive so I am about to purchase a KME tapered diamond rod myself...and I am going to use the SM UF rods to hone the teeth.
dubya3 wrote:Since we're on the topic, I could use a touch up on my zdp spyderedge delica. What's the best method (specifically which tool/brand) is easiest to sharpen serrations? I don't own anything yet but use my brothers sharpmaker when needed.
This is the method I came up with and have had amazing results. That said, I do plan on ordering a Sharpmaker specifically for my SE blades and will then use it along with my Dremel.
@ Evil D, a question for you: do you move the tapered rod in a motion down on serrations or against the serrations ? Your method seems to be less invasive so I am about to purchase a KME tapered diamond rod myself...and I am going to use the SM UF rods to hone the teeth.
I've tried both but away from the edge is easier for me to match the angle. You can only do the Dremel that way anyway or the edge will bite into the buffing wheel. It's a safe assumption that a Sharpmaker and Dremel will do an even better job, considering people can get hair whittling edges with just the Sharpmaker.
Pro's: Cuts almost everything faster and better albeit maybe not as clean.
Cuts longer between sharpening
A serrated blade cuts like a longer PE blade
A serated blade with a opening hole IS Spyderco :D
Cons: maybe not as suitable for shaving or fine whittling.
Pro's: Cuts almost everything faster and better albeit maybe not as clean.
Cuts longer between sharpening
A serrated blade cuts like a longer PE blade
A serated blade with a opening hole IS Spyderco :D
Cons: maybe not as suitable for shaving or fine whittling.
SpyderEdge rocks!!! :cool: :D
Well I'm pretty much in full agreement with Brother SPYDUTCH But I do have a couple of factors I would like to shed some light on>> and I do hope that Cliff Stamp weighs in on this topic. I've found that many of the blade steels that are not really all that great in Spyderedge seem to work super on serrated edges>> three excellent examples I've found are AUS-8, ATS-34 and 440V are three I've personally had great luck with>> you can also throw ATS-55 and H-1 both in that group as well. Whereas a lot of steels that seem to make a super, wickedly sharp plain edge don't seem to do well with serrated edges>> some primary examples of that are ZDP-189 and S30V.
I even remember hearing that Spyderco won't even make any more Spyderedged blades with ZDP-189 and it hasn't been that long ago I heard that mentioned. It sure seems like a strange anomaly that one steel would be great for plain edges and not so for serrated edges :confused: It must be something with the factors of toughness, ductility and so forth or maybe its some other factor.
Always thought combo edges were bleak ..... had only one and every time I used it what I cut went thru the serrated portion & the plain edge .... Resulting in a shabby cutting job eg. crude and rough ......
spydutch wrote:
Cons: maybe not as suitable for shaving or fine whittling.
I used to shave with a Civilian. Then I decided to grow a glorious beard instead :cool:
I love the SPYDEREDGE a lot but I would never use a serrated straight razor :eek: I like my three straight razors and have shaved with two of them but using a Spyderedge to shave with could easily fillet your face :eek:
But on the other hand I bet a straight razor that had serrations would make a dandy SD blade :cool:
But I do have a couple of factors I would like to shed some light on>> and I do hope that Cliff Stamp weighs in on this topic. I've found that many of the blade steels that are not really all that great in Spyderedge seem to work super on serrated edges>> three excellent examples I've found are AUS-8, ATS-34 and 440V are three I've personally had great luck with>> you can also throw ATS-55 and H-1 both in that group as well. Whereas a lot of steels that seem to make a super, wickedly sharp plain edge don't seem to do well with serrated edges>> some primary examples of that are ZDP-189 and S30V. 
