I cant sharp my knife with sharpmaker triangle :(

[rpgielow]

Hello guys !!!

I have a guepardo survival pocket knife and I spent all day long trying to let it razor sharp using the triangle sharpmaker and it is shining but not sharp.

I cant cut paper or anything like the videos.

What it is going wrong ???

https://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=mcaf ... o+survival" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

knife picture

Thank you in advance :)

[Echo63]

try getting a sharpie, or similar permanent marker, and colouring in the edge.

do a couple of passes per side on the stones, and then have a look at the edge.

if there is still colour in the very edge, the stones aren't hitting the apex, and the bevel needs thinning out (the diamond stones will work the best to do it quickly)

[Ray Allen]

Hello,
Do you have the instruction DVD that came with your Sharpmaker or had the chance to watch Sal's or others YouTube videos online? Not sure from your post which video you watched. Bottom line is you are not getting a clean sharpened apex. There can be a couple of reasons for that, but that's what needs to happen. Having a loupe also helps tremendously in examining the actual apex to see what is really happening during the sharpening process. The sharpie trick does help also as was previously mentioned. Hang in there, we can help... :)
Best

[rpgielow]

I will try colouring the edge guys.

I will come back later with the result.

[sal]

Hi Rpgielow,

Welcome to our forum.

sal

[awa54]

That knife looks like an exact duplicate of the Tool Logic brand knife/light combos. If it really is the same as a Tool Logic knife then the grind and steel are pretty "basic". You probably need to re-set the bevel (make the angle of attack to the blade edge shallower) on the non-serrated part of the blade in order to get an edge that will cut paper or shave. That kind of edge rework is best done on a large coarse grit stone. If you aren't familiar with taking an edge from fairly obtuse and dull to acute and polished, this may be a tough project to tackle... but once you master all the steps and techniques you'll always have a sharp knife!!

I have two Tool Logic knives, one almost exactly the same as yours but with a drop point shaped blade, both required extensive work to get *really* sharp. The steel is fairly soft, so stock removal isn't terribly hard, but the original edge grind was lousy enough that it was still pretty time consuming. The end result was that both knives took a decent edge, but don't hold it very well under hard use.

[rpgielow]

I am back guys !!!

So I think you are right. I have some pictures so you can see for yourselves.



It is not touching the edge, it is right before it. So what do you suggest ???

Should I use the 30º procedure ???

Thanks again !!

[farnorthdan]

You could try using a wedge under base of your SM to change the angle of the stones, of course this is not an exact science and may take a few tries before getting it dialed in. Personally I would use a fixed angle system like an Edge Pro, wicked edge or even a lansky and reprofile the edge to 30 degrees inclusive then maintain with the SM. There are some very talented knife sharpeners here who should be able to give you additional advise.

[rpgielow]

A few more passes at 40º and I cleared almost all paint but in the edge lol



So it is very close to the edge now. If I keep using 40º rinse and repeat alot it will solve the problem ??

Thank you all for your opinions :spyder:

[Ray Allen]

In addition to the previous suggestions a person can just angle the blade out a touch by hand if needed to get to the apex. This is not ideal because you are just guessing but with experience it is quick and easy. The ideal thing in simple terms, would be to obtain either the diamond or CBN rods, and reprofile the bevel to 30 degrees inclusive and finish with a 40 degree micro bevel.

[rpgielow]

Can you link to me the rods that I need to acquire ???

[Surfingringo]

yes, definitely get the diamond rods. They are a game changing addition to the sharpmaker. I would take the time to rebevel to 30 degrees and then you can just microbevel on at 40 degrees. That makes for a great edge and makes future sharpening very easy. Of course it will take a good deal more time so if you don't want to work that hard you can just sharpen at 40. Either way, the diamond rods are going to be almost mandatory.

[Surfingringo]

http://www.knifeworks.com/spydercodiamo ... ZRm0GAvtE4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Not cheap but worth every penny. :)

[rpgielow]

Thank you guys !!! I will work on that next week and post the results here.

[Ray Allen]

Thank you guys !!! I will work on that next week and post the results here.

If you get the diamond or CBN rods, be sure to just use light pressure when using them. Use lots of passes rather than being aggressive. Let the stone do the work, be patient. Also, some like to use water or Windex on those when reprofiling.
30 degrees will get you noticeable improvement in cutting performance and be sure to learn how to take care of the serrations with the Sharpmaker. It really works well...