What makes a good Fillet Knife?

[Surfingringo]

I've been testing one of Phil's filet knives since January. Excellent.

sal

cpm154 model Sal?

[xinam]

I'd personally love to see Spyderco's take on a fixed fillet knife. I bought my dad a alaskan guide Buck in s30, he likes it... I'm more of a spyderco guy :)

The new kitchen knives have a grippy looking handle, maybe add a kydex sheath with a g-clip. I'd imagine vg-10 would be a easy steel to maintenance.

[Tdog]

This is a great thread. Most of what makes a good fillet knife has already been discussed. For saltwater I prefer a slightly longer blade, around 8.5" or 9" This if you have larger fillets that you want to keep whole and skin. I am fortunate to have one of Phil's knives (thank you) in CPM154. Cleaned some mahi and mangrove snapper with it last week. Breezes right through filleting and skinning. What's so great is that it takes little to get it back to a being really sharp.
If it's not too hot out, I try and do all my filleting first and save the skinning for last. Actually prefer a slightly duller edge especially for thin skinned fish. I also have the Dexter 1378 and 2333-8. Both good inexpensive knives though they will rust quickly if not taken care of. The Rapala's too are also pretty decent for being inexpensive knives. When I catch larger grouper or snapper I have an old rosewood Forschner 10" breaking knife that I'll use to whack through rib cages. Saves edge damage to the fillet knives. The Forschner also works great for steaking kingfish. Thanks Lance, seeing all the nice fish you catch helps keep me fired up.

[Surfingringo]

This is a great thread. Most of what makes a good fillet knife has already been discussed. For saltwater I prefer a slightly longer blade, around 8.5" or 9" This if you have larger fillets that you want to keep whole and skin. I am fortunate to have one of Phil's knives (thank you) in CPM154. Cleaned some mahi and mangrove snapper with it last week. Breezes right through filleting and skinning. What's so great is that it takes little to get it back to a being really sharp.
If it's not too hot out, I try and do all my filleting first and save the skinning for last. Actually prefer a slightly duller edge especially for thin skinned fish. I also have the Dexter 1378 and 2333-8. Both good inexpensive knives though they will rust quickly if not taken care of. The Rapala's too are also pretty decent for being inexpensive knives. When I catch larger grouper or snapper I have an old rosewood Forschner 10" breaking knife that I'll use to whack through rib cages. Saves edge damage to the fillet knives. The Forschner also works great for steaking kingfish. Thanks Lance, seeing all the nice fish you catch helps keep me fired up.

Excellent point. I love working with a hair popping edge but all that "bite" becomes a liability when sliding across the surface of soft skin. "Dull" doesn't work either but theres definitely a certain mid level of sharmness that is ideal for skinning. I think the same can hold true for skinning large game.

btw, how do you like that cpm154 on the fillet? I think Phil does an amazing job with that steel. I love the performance, durability and ease of sharpening I get out of it. Probably my favorite all around stainless steel. Wish we would see Spyderco use it in some knives.

[Donut]

I imagine a convex edge would work good.

[sal]

I've been testing one of Phil's filet knives since January. Excellent.

sal

cpm154 model Sal?

The one I've been using recently is S30V.

sal

[Ankerson]

I've been testing one of Phil's filet knives since January. Excellent.

sal

cpm154 model Sal?

The one I've been using recently is S30V.

sal

Hi Sal,

I am guessing you are loving that. :cool:

JIm

[sal]

Hi Jim,

It's an excellent piece. I've been testing a few sizes and models from Phil for many years. We'd like to make one of his filet knives and we're trying to pick the optimum size. The last one is a good size in the 6" range. We wanted to make it with MBS-26, but the maker says he doesn't have confidence that steel will hold up with his very thin tips. So now I need to hear from Phil on this first choice of steel. The Sprig is S90V as the Southfork, optimal for those designs, but I would suspect that Phil has a best best steel choice for this model.

BTW, nice article in Knives Illustrated.

sal

[Ankerson]

Hi Jim,

It's an excellent piece. I've been testing a few sizes and models from Phil for many years. We'd like to make one of his filet knives and we're trying to pick the optimum size. The last one is a good size in the 6" range. We wanted to make it with MBS-26, but the maker says he doesn't have confidence that steel will hold up with his very thin tips. So now I need to hear from Phil on this first choice of steel. The Sprig is S90V as the Southfork, optimal for those designs, but I would suspect that Phil has a best best steel choice for this model.

BTW, nice article in Knives Illustrated.

sal

Hi Sal,

Thanks. :)

I am sure Phil has his ideas about what steel he would like to see used. :)

JIm

[KevinOubre]

[quote="Ankerson
BTW, nice article in Knives Illustrated.

sal[/quote]


Hi Sal,

Thanks. :)

I am sure Phil has his ideas about what steel he would like to see used. :)

JIm[/quote]

Jim, I didn't know you had an article in there. Congrats man, that's awesome! Ill have to go to the store and check it out

[Ankerson]

[quote="Ankerson]
BTW, nice article in Knives Illustrated.

sal

Hi Sal,

Thanks. :)

I am sure Phil has his ideas about what steel he would like to see used. :)

JIm[/quote]

Jim, I didn't know you had an article in there. Congrats man, that's awesome! Ill have to go to the store and check it out[/quote][/quote]

Haven't seen it yet. :o

I have 2 things in this issue July/August, main article and my Column. :)

[Ankerson]

Hi Jim,

It's an excellent piece. I've been testing a few sizes and models from Phil for many years. We'd like to make one of his filet knives and we're trying to pick the optimum size. The last one is a good size in the 6" range. We wanted to make it with MBS-26, but the maker says he doesn't have confidence that steel will hold up with his very thin tips. So now I need to hear from Phil on this first choice of steel. The Sprig is S90V as the Southfork, optimal for those designs, but I would suspect that Phil has a best best steel choice for this model.

BTW, nice article in Knives Illustrated.

sal

Hi Sal,

Haven't seen it yet, how did it turn out? :o

Didn't get my issue in the mail yet. :mad:

Jim

[Tdog]

This is a great thread. Most of what makes a good fillet knife has already been discussed. For saltwater I prefer a slightly longer blade, around 8.5" or 9" This if you have larger fillets that you want to keep whole and skin. I am fortunate to have one of Phil's knives (thank you) in CPM154. Cleaned some mahi and mangrove snapper with it last week. Breezes right through filleting and skinning. What's so great is that it takes little to get it back to a being really sharp.
If it's not too hot out, I try and do all my filleting first and save the skinning for last. Actually prefer a slightly duller edge especially for skinning the thin skinned fish. I also have the Dexter 1378 and 2333-8. Both good inexpensive knives though they will rust quickly if not taken care of. The Rapala's too are also pretty decent for being inexpensive knives. When I catch larger grouper or snapper I have an old rosewood Forschner 10" breaking knife that I'll use to whack through rib cages. Saves edge damage to the fillet knives. The Forschner also works great for steaking kingfish. Thanks Lance, seeing all the nice fish you catch helps keep me fired up.

Excellent point. I love working with a hair popping edge but all that "bite" becomes a liability when sliding across the surface of soft skin. "Dull" doesn't work either but theres definitely a certain mid level of sharmness that is ideal for skinning. I think the same can hold true for skinning large game.

btw, how do you like that cpm154 on the fillet? I think Phil does an amazing job with that steel. I love the performance, durability and ease of sharpening I get out of it. Probably my favorite all around stainless steel. Wish we would see Spyderco use it in some knives.

Really love the CPM154, gets hair popping sharp VERY easily and has good stainless characteristics. One of the things I notice about the blade is that you can somewhat "feel" the density of the steel if that makes sense. Must be in the heat treat. The knife also has a very good edge geometry and very good balance. Phil is definitely a master when it comes to the building fillet and hunting knives.

[Ankerson]

This is a great thread. Most of what makes a good fillet knife has already been discussed. For saltwater I prefer a slightly longer blade, around 8.5" or 9" This if you have larger fillets that you want to keep whole and skin. I am fortunate to have one of Phil's knives (thank you) in CPM154. Cleaned some mahi and mangrove snapper with it last week. Breezes right through filleting and skinning. What's so great is that it takes little to get it back to a being really sharp.
If it's not too hot out, I try and do all my filleting first and save the skinning for last. Actually prefer a slightly duller edge especially for skinning the thin skinned fish. I also have the Dexter 1378 and 2333-8. Both good inexpensive knives though they will rust quickly if not taken care of. The Rapala's too are also pretty decent for being inexpensive knives. When I catch larger grouper or snapper I have an old rosewood Forschner 10" breaking knife that I'll use to whack through rib cages. Saves edge damage to the fillet knives. The Forschner also works great for steaking kingfish. Thanks Lance, seeing all the nice fish you catch helps keep me fired up.

Excellent point. I love working with a hair popping edge but all that "bite" becomes a liability when sliding across the surface of soft skin. "Dull" doesn't work either but theres definitely a certain mid level of sharmness that is ideal for skinning. I think the same can hold true for skinning large game.

btw, how do you like that cpm154 on the fillet? I think Phil does an amazing job with that steel. I love the performance, durability and ease of sharpening I get out of it. Probably my favorite all around stainless steel. Wish we would see Spyderco use it in some knives.

Really love the CPM154, gets hair popping sharp VERY easily and has good stainless characteristics. One of the things I notice about the blade is that you can somewhat "feel" the density of the steel if that makes sense. Must be in the heat treat. The knife also has a very good edge geometry and very good balance. Phil is definitely a master when it comes to the building fillet and hunting knives.

I concur, CPM 154 works extremely well for how I use my Phil Wilson Fillet knife. :)

I use mine in the kitchen, gets very sharp and both holds an edge very well and is aggressive with the edge I keep on it, 400 Grit.

[Surfingringo]

Tdog and Jim....another observation I would make about cpm154 is that I can put an extremely aggressive edge on it. Yes, with a good diamond stone I can sharpen any modern steel and make any of them cut aggressively, but there is just a little extra "bite" to what I can do with this steel. Jim, I haven't tested nearly as many knives as you but surely you have noticed that some knives will show differences in the aggression of their edge given the same sharpening procedure and level of sharpness? 154 ranks pretty high up there in the group of steels I have used. I would assume it has something to do with the scratch pattern at the apex? Interestingly enough, i find it to accept a very keen polished edge too. Very balanced stainless steel in my book.

[Ankerson]

Tdog and Jim....another observation I would make about cpm154 is that I can put an extremely aggressive edge on it. Yes, with a good diamond stone I can sharpen any modern steel and make any of them cut aggressively, but there is just a little extra "bite" to what I can do with this steel. Jim, I haven't tested nearly as many knives as you but surely you have noticed that some knives will show differences in the aggression of their edge given the same sharpening procedure and level of sharpness? 154 ranks pretty high up there in the group of steels I have used. I would assume it has something to do with the scratch pattern at the apex? Interestingly enough, i find it to accept a very keen polished edge too. Very balanced stainless steel in my book.

Yes, CPM 154 feels like cutting with a hacksaw with an aggressive edge on it. :cool:

[Phil Wilson]

Thanks guys always nice to hear about my fillet knives in action. I got to use one last couple of days myself. I was over on the coast for a few days and got some nice bottom fish. "Fish and Chips and Fish Tacos"

Sal , I will be at Blade. No table but have a chance to walk around and visit with the steel foundry guys and knife making and using friends. We can talk over fillet knife steels there. I will look forward to it. Phil

[arty]

I have been very pleased with my slicing and boning knives in S35V. I'd like to see one in CPM 154, from what I have read about it.

[Donut]

Hi Jim,

It's an excellent piece. I've been testing a few sizes and models from Phil for many years. We'd like to make one of his filet knives and we're trying to pick the optimum size. The last one is a good size in the 6" range. We wanted to make it with MBS-26, but the maker says he doesn't have confidence that steel will hold up with his very thin tips. So now I need to hear from Phil on this first choice of steel. The Sprig is S90V as the Southfork, optimal for those designs, but I would suspect that Phil has a best best steel choice for this model.

BTW, nice article in Knives Illustrated.

sal

Well, Phil says he has trouble getting MBS-26 to work with. Is Japan really not happy sending their steel to a USA knife maker?

I mean, if Phil had some to test, he could make adjustments to his own design and see how it works.

[Surfingringo]

I have one of the serrated kitchen knives in mbs26. It is a cutting machine but surprisingly, I have had a bit of a rust issue with mine. It hasn't been around any saltwater...just normal kitchen duties and treated like the rest of my kitchen knives. I suppose it got put away a bit wet but it definitely had some significant rust showing a few days later when I got it out to use it. Anybody else had an issue with this steel?