the ideal knife for small flower cuttings

[Brunzenstein48]

especially roses but also some berries can be a real pain if you have to do a lot of small cuttings - so a serrated / plain edge knife may be the best way to tackle the very resistant beauties - any hint for the ideal knife for semi-professional gardener?
It should be small and a folder as the knife should be always around just in case I see a interesting cutting when meandering in the wild.

[Knivesinedc]

It would help if you gave your price range. My recommendation would be probably the Dragonfly2 FRN or G10. The G10 is more expensive but fills the hand a little better and is a bit more robust, but is still plenty small and handy.

[Brunzenstein48]

When aiming for a real tool one uses every day the price is not important - the usefulness is.

[NoFair]

I usually do a lot of pull cuts when trimming roses etc. in the garden and the Tasman Salt is what I use most. The yellow color also makes it look less threatening and easier to find if you put it down. Since it is a H1 knife it doesn't corrode even when covered in rhubarb and other corrosive plant fluids.

Other options: Harpy and Lil Matriarch.

[Brunzenstein48]

I usually do a lot of pull cuts when trimming roses etc. in the garden and the Tasman Salt is what I use most. The yellow color also makes it look less threatening and easier to find if you put it down. Since it is a H1 knife it doesn't corrode even when covered in rhubarb and other corrosive plant fluids.

Thanks - thats a VERY vital point I overlooked!

[Surfingringo]

I have both the Tasman and the Lil Matriarch. I would use the Lil Matriarch for the work you are describing. SE will work but I think you will get cleaner cuts with a very sharp pe with a semi coarse finish.

[Doc Dan]

Most of the dedicated pruning knives of which I am aware have blunt tipped blades and are designed for cutting. Of Spyderco's current selection the Pingo and Kiwi 4 and 3 come closest. The Equilibrium might work as it is similar to the Cold Steel Tuff Lite. The Roadie would be perfect but it is probably too small.

[bearfacedkiller]

You want a small hawkbill. Spyderco does not make a dedicated pruner and Victorinox does. If you must have a Spydie then look for one of their plain edge Hawkbills. The recent USN Ladybug PE is gonna see copious amounts of use in my garden this year and I have already used my PE BBS Lil' Matriarch to harvest a bit of mint. :)

[NoFair]

Indoors I use a Spyderco pairing knife (the smallest) and so does the wife (used to work as a florist)

The Tasman is available in PE

The Byrd Hawkbill in FRN is only available in serrated, but it is cheap and cheerful

[Doc Dan]

I forgot about the paring knife. Good call.

[Evil D]

I would want a serrated hawkbill. Some stems get pretty tough and depending on how you go about cutting, the blade can slide more than bite in and cut. Since we're dealing with delicate flowers, you don't wanna be too rough. A good sharp serration will grab around the stem and aid in cutting it.

Also I hate to say it, but this is probably one area where those Veff serrations will really shine.

[Donut]

I say Serrated Dragonfly Salt.

[demoncase]

I say Serrated Dragonfly Salt.

Seconded.

If you have sausage fingers and need something bigger, look at either the Tasman Salt, Harpy or (if you really want to over-egg the pudding) a Matriarch 2.

Personally, if a stem is so woody that it's resisting the less-than-tender embrace of the Spyderedge, it's time to reach for the loppers or a saw.

[stalag2]

Cricket, Dodo, Spot, Lil'matri or even the hawkbill ladybug; Hawkbills are fine in the garden given that for a very compact blade you get an intricate and easy to control tip yet is able to do really rough pull cuts aswell.
I also like wharncliffes for such work but i wouldnt use my Yojimbo2 as it is very thick i would snatch a Spydie paring knife and get a kydex neck sheath for it.
I dont think serrations are mandatory if you keep your PE sharp with a coarse edge it just obliterates vegetal fibers as long you dont have to saw through dry twigs and the likes.

[Donut]

If it gets difficult, you can squeeze the knife closed and pinch what you're cutting between the edge and the handle.

[Johnnie1801]

I don't have one but I reckon the Roadie could be a good gardening knife :)

[akaAK]

I do a lot of gardening (pastime) and have had very good luck with H1 and VG10 (developed for the horticultural industry). My primary user is a SE Tasman Salt, corrosion resistant, easy to sharpen and lets you pull the canes or stems you want to remove out of the center of the plant (helps with thorns on raspberries or roses). I also use a CE Delica, SE Dragonfly (either H1 or VG-10) and a CE Military when I am clearing larger vegetation and as a general yard work knife. I have thought about adding a H1 SE Hawkbill Ladybug to get my daughter familiar with using when gardening.

PE will work in most cases but some plants have very hard stems that respond better to SE. You are absolutely right about a knife that you will have with you since it will be no use back in the house.

[Enkidude]

Ladybug Hawkbill. Small and mighty.

[xinam]

I've been in the landscaping profession for 17 yrs. The Police 3 se has been then best knife to date for plaint and even small saplings and roots. I find that the length of the knife adds reach and allows you to get places you'd rather not have your hand. That length also seems to keep it in its spot in the pocket and carries really well. The big handle and finger choil allow for gloves and the thin blade cuts like magic from most positions. Others have said and I agree that a lil matriarch or tasman salt would be great cutters and probably serve you well. The police is just a better all-around option . SE just cuts nice in plant material and affords you an nice cut from most angles.